Monday, February 18, 2013

Hello from SE Asia!


Okay, so I've been busy scrambling across SE Asia on our tour.  Sorry this is lengthy, but haven't journaled in a few days so using this to get it all down;). It's been such an amazing adventure thus far...

Our G-adventures group is great. Andrew, our guide, is from NZ and has been a tour guide for 8 yrs.!  I believe he's about my age.  He's very tall so we really stand out as we wonder the streets with him. Hilda and Andreas are the newlyweds (early 30's) from Norway.  Kind gentle people who have already traveled to India for 3 weeks on their own and will continue on after our tour for a prolonged honeymoon.  Elke and Phil are 37 and 28 from Germany, each traveling on their own and have done G-adventure tours before. Elke is such a thoughtful person with a sweet soul and Phil so interesting as he's done a lot of travel and extended home stays including a yr. of volunteering at a homeless shelter in Chicago. Our English friends, Tracy and Sally, are each around our parents age and are also each traveling alone.  Sally is a hoot and runs a B&B on the Isle of White, Tracy an accountant who I like laughing and sharing a beer with.  Elaine is from Canada (also probably in her 60's), and has been such a trooper.  Her husband was with us in the beginning, but broke away for work travel to India.  A Chinese family from Melbourne-daughter, Susan, starting college and translating for her mom, dad, and younger brother, Yung, and their aunt, Jessica.  This tour has definitely been adventures within adventures, so I've been impressed with our older folks' stamina!

Back to Day 1 of tour:  (was part of an extra adrenaline package we signed up for-so met the group for the first time that night)
Did Flight of the Gibbon Canopy tour-amazing flying through the trees on about 25+ zip lines.  Met fun Aussie and American couples. Forest sights were breathtaking (along with the height!) and enjoyed the sounds of jungle birds.

Day 2-Bangkok:
Saw the actual Wat Pho (thought we had seen it already, but figured out that was just another one of the 40,000 temples in Thailand that we had stumbled into a few days prior). Here is the famous reclining Buddha.  HUGE gold plated Budda inside the temple with mother of pearl inlay in the feet making intricate and beautiful pictures.  Learned from our awesome local tour guide that actually the lily pad flowers (the lotus flower) are given with 3 chopsticks and a candle when people go to pray.

Took long boats through the canals seeing people doing laundry, cooking, on their cellular phones.

Went to Jim Thompson House.  American who became fascinated with the Thai silk trade and brought it all over the world. He mysteriously disappeared around age 61 while traveling to Malaysia.  His home and Asian art collection were donated and was beautiful to see. He had collected 6 traditional Thai homes made from beautiful Teak wood to great one. The silk paintings and ceramics in his art collection were also stunning.

Overnight train to Chiang Mi-14 hrs. and quite a trip...the dining car was rocking!  Phil, Elke and I had a fun time chatting with an elderly (but partying) Chinese couple and some entertaining drunk Finnish dudes.

Day 3-Welcome to Chiang Mi:
Sally and I rode bikes through the city...dodging people, monks, cars, buses, motorbikes, dogs, etc. Dip in pool, then off up the mountain to see the temple Doi Suthep.  Was wonderful. Gold, incense, monks chanting, received a blessing (and bracelet) from a monk, and watched the temple glow as the sun set.  Afterwards went to the night market and enjoyed phat thai and the local dish, Kow Soi (yummy noodles, broth, spices, etc) and did some gift shopping.

Day 4-Chiang Mi:
Song Theaw (small pick up truck with seats and a "roof" in the back-loved 'em!) picked us up among others for our Thai cooking class. Our instructor was a 19 yr. old who learned cooking of course from her mother and she was so wonderful-just loved her. We made spicy prawn soup, phat thai, green and red chicken curries (pounding out the herbs and spices along the way to make the pastes-so cool!), and rolled and fried yummy spring rolls-ate it all with our French and English friends.  It was a gorgeous day, as our English friends would say!  That late afternoon we took vans to Chiang Kong, stopping at Wat Rong Khun along the way. It was a pretty drive, but hilly. The temple was huge, white and mirrored...odd. Designed by a modern artist in 1996 and had pictures of Freddie Kougar, batman, Spider-Man, Michael Jackson, etc and from what we read signified the falling of our world to evil, and that no one, not even the superheroes could save us. Now were MJ and Freddie superheroes?!  Anyway, as I said, odd but a site to see.  

Day 5-6:  Grand float down the mighty Mekong river
Now this was the life. Huge open air boat, cool river breezes, warm sunshine and a chance to relax, enjoy coffee, tea, beer, home coked meals prepared by the family that lived on the boat, cards and stories with friends, naps, music, chats with our Laotian tour guide, and enjoy the most gorgeous untouched scenery I think I've ever seen.  Lush green mountains, little waterfalls, villages, gardens, people out swimming, fishing, panning for gold, kids playing and water buffalo were some of the sights.  Stopped in a village along the way, Ban Pha Ram, and met and learned about the Khau people. Had fun smiling with 2 little girls who were having the best time with a balloon (deflated none the less). One naked, one with tattered clothes, they seems like sisters as they laughed and giggled in unison. We stayed the night in a small town, Pakbeng, and stayed in lovely tree-house type rooms up on stilts over the river-arriving just in time for sunset.  Had water buffalo with pumpkin that night with a coconut-based soup and ate some fried Mekong river weed, of course!  Stopped at the Pak Ou Caves the next day which have been used as a temple and had over 4,000 Buddas inside-very cool stepping in and out of this cliff-side formation.  Wish I could share so many of these pics, but the only ones I can put on the blog are the few I manage to shoot with my iPhone. 

Day 6-Welcome to Laung Prabang, Laos
Great little city w/ fun streets to explore and French inspired architecture. Still sights of the old world combined with several areas that cater to westerners/tourists and saw a lot of backpackers along with your well-to-do Asian and European tourists including families and retirees.  Ate at a Laotian BBQ place nested amongst the bamboo off the Nam Kong river where you cooked your own meat and veggies over a little grill/fire pit at your table. Noodles included w/ garlic, eggs, and chillies to make a little soup if you wanted. Had fresh lime and mint cocktails and toasted to our Valentine's Day. 

Day 7-Laung Prabang
Visited the local Arts and Ethnology Museum which was very well done and built in a restored historical building.  "Mr. B", our local Laotian guide, was excellent and I really enjoyed learning about the different tribes from all of the regions of the country. We saw traditional clothing that was so colorful and detailed and learned about their courting and marriage rituals which is always a trip.  Rode and fed elephants which included a ride through the beautiful countryside and a river ride in a little boat that felt like it could tip over if you sneezed!  The elephants appeared well taken care of and the trainers would nudge behind their ears to steer them while riding on their necks.  They seemed to follow commands well and loved the bananas and bamboo-so cute seeing them chomp it up and also enjoyed watching them swim in the river!  That night was really special. We had a home visit where we ate at a local family's home.  The elders did a welcoming ritual where they said prayers around a flowered centerpiece made with banana leaves (we were all sitting on the floor and shoes go off when going into one's home) filled w/ yummy appetizers.  They each came around the circle to tie strings on our wrists while again saying some welcoming prayers. Such sweet worn faces and warm smiles. The meal was, of course, delicious.  Laas (which is a local Laotian dish of minced pork w/ mint, shallots, herbs-so flavorful!), fried eggplant, yummy salad w/ a sweet dressing, fresh herbs and nuts, noodles and a curry dish. Dessert was a coconut milk type pudding in little handmade bowls from banana leaves with fresh mango-yum!  Enjoyed the night market and bought some treats for myself and fam. 

Day 8-Laung Prabang:
Free time w/ 1 hr. $7 traditional Laos massage, wrote postcards from a quiet courtyard by the pool at one of the fanciest hotels in town (built in the old hospital-very cool building), and lunch at a place down the street from our hotel with Sally and Tracy. Big yummy flat noodles stir-fried with vegetables.  Took Songtheaws outside of town to the gorgeous Kuang Sii waterfalls. Had flat and breakdown along the way, but all taken care of in due time!;). Enjoyed the teak trees and laughs and moans as we waited. The falls included a rescued bears sanctuary-cute little fellas.  Julia, Yong and I followed the guide (law in Laos that any tour group must use a local guide at the sites and on our travels by bus, etc.) up a steep steep hike to the top of the falls. Views were spectacular and the baby blue color of the cool clear water was just beautiful!  I swam and enjoyed a "Jane of the Jungle" moment off the rope swing. Julia caught a classic pic!  We made it back in time to catch the sunset atop Mount Phousi-will hopefully include a couple of pics of this-saw gold Buddas lining our path.  That night ate at Utopia. Interesting to see all of the westerners there-it was quite the scene. Volleyball, large TVs showing skydiving, pallets and pillows around tables in the gardens with candlelight, and bamboo deck over the river. Had fancy cocktails complete w/ fresh red chili pepper and Phil and I then went to the local bowling alley.  It was hilarious. This is where everyone (meaning tourists) goes after curfew in town at midnight.  Lots of young'ns acting pretty stupid-good people watching. I have to say I was a very smart calm kid compared to these people!  Hung w/ a gal from San Francisco there and enjoyed our travel and life chat;). 

Day 9:  5-6 hr. bus ride to Vang Vieng, Laos-STUNNING scenery-but very windy mountainous roads
Did a village home stay in Ba Na Douang-another very special night. Walked through the village. Helped the ladies cook over an open fire. Turkeys and chickens everywhere!  Home cooked meal was amazing!  Danced all night with the kids (traditional Laos dancing plus some Gangnam style under the stars), taught them the hokey pokey...reminded me of the time I spent with the families in Honduras when there for a mission trip in 2008. Julia and I slept in a little room in the back of a family's home with pigs and chickens out our window. Enjoyed speaking with the 26 yr. old daughter who taught English at the secondary school.  Could hear the families gathered outside enjoying each other's company while I took a nice refreshing cold shower;)--what a night it was! 

Next day, kayaked the Nam Kong River w/ Julia, Hilda, Andreas, Sally, and Elke.  Guides were great!  One also taught rock climbing (wish I would have had time to do this) and spoke English pretty well. He was getting ready to turn 29 and we chatted and laughed with him about how his family thought "something was wrong with him" and that he needed to go to the doctor since he was the eldest son and had not yet married. I told him how I had to hear it from my grandmother often and we all agreed you have to find the right person first and foremost;). We stopped for a refreshing swim and again, were surrounded by beauty-HUGE limestone cliffs and mountains covered in green. Enjoyed Falafel for lunch w/ pals  (was ready for something different) and had another massage. Did some of this journaling while enjoying the river scenes from a balcony with Beer Laos. Our room's view was awesome of the mountains and enjoyed dinner with the group listening to some Simon and Garfunkle and of course laughing and being silly. 

Day 10:  4 hr. bus ride to Lao's sleepy capital-Vientiane
Love passing through the villages seeing the kids on their bikes in uniform headed off to school. Signing off for now. Hope all is well at home and sending my love!


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